Peru: A Tapestry of Restaurant, Street and Market Food (plus a recipe for Quinoa Soup)

There’s a difference between vacationing and traveling. Traveling removes me from my comfort zone; vacationing amplifies my comfort. The past couple of weeks spent in this marvelous tapestry of a landscape called Peru would definitely qualify as Traveling.

IMG_2754Between navigating road blocks piled high with boulders, tree stumps, and old TV’s–then finding ourselves in the center of a demonstration against the government; between drinking tinctures to avoid altitude sickness while insuring said tincture is not of the stomach curdling, tap water vintage…bottom line, two rode hard ladies could use a beach in the Caribbean about now.

That’s not to say this wasn’t one of the best trips of my life. I love Peru. I love her food. I love her culture, her spirituality, her people. And I will write more about these travels when I have recovered from this country. In summery, Pachamama  gave this disconnected woman a wake-up slap on her creamy North American cheek.  (Food and culture are intrinsically linked. Here are some Peruvian people and their foods that we were delighted to meet.)

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Gaston Acurio is the Peruvian chef recognized for bringing the delectable cuisine of his country to the world. Today, Peruvian food is widely considered one of the great world cuisines.

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Ceviche (cebiche) is Peru's flagship dish of marinated seafood (trout pictured here) in chili peppers and limes usually served with sweet potatoes, onions and toasted corn.

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Shrimp, shellfish and trout were featured in this version of cebiche.

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There are thousands of varieties of potato with their own specific usages.

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Color-drenched sauces and condiments accompanied most every dish we sampled. Pictured here they are sold by the kilo at a local market.

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Papas Rellenas: Fried Mashed Potatoes filled with Beef served with Huancaina Sauce and Sarsa Criolla.

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Ubiquitous in Peruvian cuisine are mashed potatoes that are served compressed and chilled, filled with a variety of vegetables--perhaps fish--and served with a sauce of some sort.

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Another version, fashionably molded in a timbale.

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Negotiating a vegetarian meal could be a complex operation. Bits of meat seem to hide everywhere.

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Anticuchos are brochettes made from beef hearts marinated in a various Peruvian spices and grilled. They are sold by street vendors, but we enjoyed them (not skewered) alongside livers and gizzards at Panchita, a popular creole restaurant in the Miraflores section of Lima.

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We're all familiar with the plethora of health properties in quinoa, the ancient Inca grain. You'll find a wide variety of quinoa soups throughout Peru.

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Quinoa, quinoa! Cleverly planted in little cakes, and even based in ice cream.

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Another Peruvian favorite--guinea pig! Everyone has an opinion on this, errr, rodent and I found them delicious. With their tiny bones and rich flavor, they were reminiscent of game birds.

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Trout, in all of its many guises, is Andean cookings primary freshwater fish and you will see it on every menu in every restaurant in Peru. Perhaps I exaggerate, but as much as I love trout, I'm done with this fish for a while.

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Surprise! The main course is...trout!

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This tea (note the coca leaves) helped with the soaring altitudes. This was my recovery drink after "hiking"--more like staggering--around a 16,000 foot landscape.

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Ah...the coca leaf. This staple, though not delicious, has a plethora of medicinal properties. What we chewed (with quinoa ashes), ate in candy and drank in tea would land us a prison sentence in the USA.

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Ah yes. When in Peru, you'll likely dine on alpaca. Judging from the "chew", it was certainly free-range and grass fed . I ate alpaca a couple of times--each experience quite different. It is a lean, flavorful meat that I especially enjoyed braised.

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The beautiful black Inca corn (Kulli).

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Shary, my fearless food-loving travel companion, sipping Chicha Morada--the infamous Peruvian purple corn drink. South Americans have all sorts of variations of corn-based drinks, and this Peruvian specialty is made by boiling purple corn with pineapple rind, apple, cinnamon, cloves and water, then seasoning it with sugar and lime juice.

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Rumor has it there are as many festivals in Peru as there are species of potato (over 3,000 each year). The next few photos were snapped along a dirt road in a small village at one 3-day event. We had the opportunity to be a part of two festivals on our travels.

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Visiting the colorful "Al Marcado" market in Lima. I haven't a clue as to what species of fish this is. It looks like something--a Parrotfish?--found in Caribbean waters, but it is from Peru. The Amazon is home to some of the largest fresh water fish on Earth.

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We are deciding on lunch now; the charming proprietor is showing us the menu.

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We pointed to the fish behind the counter we wished to try and within minutes it was ready to eat. Pictured here--fried with seaweed.

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Another one of her market creations--Arroz Con Marischos--a fresh fish and rice dish seasoned with tomato, garlic, cumin peppers, turmeric, onions and paprika--typical ingredients enjoyed in traditional Peruvian recipes.

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Farm to Table; an Amazon woman brings fruit from her farm to the local Lima market.

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Luscious fruit from the Amazon jungle. Chirimoya --also known as Custard Apples-- are native to the Andean highlands of Peru. The inside is white, juicy and fleshy with a creamy custard like texture studded with seeds that look like beans. Chirimoya are sweet and taste like a combination of banana, pineapple, peach and strawberry.

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The pulp of the Granadilla is runny and sweet; the caviar of fruits with edible crunchy seeds.

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All of these Amazonian plant-based powders exhibit properties sure to cure what ails you.

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We were guided through this incredibly diverse market in Lima by "Lima Te Llena", a chef-run individualized market tour. I highly recommend this tour to food lovers who wish to dig deeper into the culture of authentic Peruvian food.

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We weren't the only ones feasting in Peru. Shary and I compare bites collected while hiking Machu Picchu.

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Here’s a recipe I just made for Chicken Quinoa Soup that is soothing the cold virus I contracted from the man who was sneezing and sniffling on my return home flight. I don’t care how silly I look; I am wearing a mask the next time I fly during flu season.

Peruvian Chicken & Quinoa Soup

Peruvian Chicken & Quinoa Soup

Recipe: Chicken-Quinoa Soup

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 cup thinly sliced onion
  • 2 carrots, peeled and sliced into coins
  • 1 celery stick, sliced
  • 3 large boneless, skinless chicken thighs, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon cumin
  • 1 teaspoon oregano
  • 1 1/2 cups quinoa (white or black)
  • 1/2-1 small, hot red pepper, sliced, such as pasilla or chipotle* (optional)
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 3 quarts chicken stock
  • 2 peeled and 1/4-inch sliced yellow (Yukon Gold) potatoes (2 cups)
  • 1 sweet medium sized potato, peeled and 1/4 inch slice (2 cups)
  • 1 1/2 cups frozen, shelled fava, lima or edamame beans
  • Chopped cilantro
  • Lime wedges (optional)

Instructions

  1. In a large, heavy-bottomed stock pot, heat oil over medium heat.
  2. Stir in onion, carrots and celery and sauté three minutes or until just fragrant. Stir in chicken and sauté an additional 5 minutes or until the raw color has diminished. Stir in cumin, oregano and quinoa and cook an additional minute.
  3. Stir in hot pepper, if using, and garlic; add stock to pot and bring to a low boil. Add potatoes and cook until just tender, about 10 minutes.
  4. Stir in beans and cook an additional 3-4 minutes. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Pass chopped cilantro and lime wedges, if using.

*Always wear plastic gloves when handling hot peppers.

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: about 25 minutes

Number of servings (yield): 16 cups (Refrigerated, this soup keeps well for up to 3 days.)

Copyright © Peggy Lampman’s dinnerFeed.

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